Ipiales, Colombia December 29th

Woke up in Ipiales after reaching the  southern Colombian border town last night.  People are gearing up for the new year, parties and celebrations everywhere made for a less than perfect sleep.  Today we travelled to Las Lajas Sanctuary to view the setting of the aforementioned church.  Here's a picture of the church from about 2km away taken from a viewpoint well above.

It's an impressive structure, built into the side of a cliff with huge stone arches that extend to the valley floor.  It's a fair hike down to the structure but certainly worth the energy taken.  By the bye, there are a few eateries at the top, one of these proudly displaying a delicacy of the area - Guinea pig.  To make matters worse, they cook them with head attached on skewers, eewww!  I'm not going to offer any pics...

Instead, here's a pic of Librams' Yamaha, he's travelling from Alaska to Patagonia.  Rubber side down, good luck man!

The morning was rather cloudy so there's not a lot of contrast.  In the foreground to the right there are a number of testaments to the milagros (miracles) granted by the edifice.

Frontal view.  Lulu really enjoyed the Church, for her it was a first time visit and to me it was special to share the experience together.

For me, being Agnostic, the best part was the hike to the valley floor for this view.  After about a zillion steps and a slippery walk down the trail we were afforded this great viewpoint, cool eh?  The return to the car included the slippery path, a zillion steps (up..) and a strenuous trek uphill .  Ate breakfast consisting of eggs not.. guinea pig.

Then we drove a few kms to the frontier of Colombia / Ecuador.  It took a couple of hours getting passports and exit stamps but for the most part getting ourselves through was relatively simple, the border officials were courteous, even tempered and fair.  Getting the vehicle into Ecuador was another matter, the registration had a discrepancy and we were allowed a restricted pass to travel only a portion of the country.  I really wanted to sample La Costa en la playas' of Ecuador so we forged onward.

First stop was the town of Tulcan, told by other travellers temporary insurance was a requirement of Ecuador we went to in search the elusive paperwork.  Tulcan is a small city, busy, old and crowded yet, the people were nice, goods and food very inexpensive, parking downright cheap and a safe environment for tourists.  

I should mention, the currency in Ecuador is US dollars, knowing this we carried greenbacks after hearing the exchange method was a street business operated by less than honest dealers.  Departing Tulcan without insurance and hoping to purchase it on the way off we went heading to the coast.  Our first stop was at a viaje (toll booth).  I should mention that roadways in South America are tolled at regular intervals, it's assumed the fee is for road upkeep but in Colombia I suspect it's designed to line the pockets of someone.  Anyway, the toll fee was only one US dollar which while very reasonable presented a definite issue.  Not having correct change, nor possessing even one 20.00 US banknote, the  maximum accepted, the toll person refused passage.  Undaunted, at least at this stage, we turned around and headed to a fuelling station passed earlier.  At the gas station we were refused exchange and had no choice but to return to Tulcan in the hope of a local bank offering this service.  

Once again I need to qualify...  It was getting late, our status of undauntedness seriously in jeopardy and frustration level on the increase.  After a short discussion and, considering our vehicle with the limited access we decided to return to Colombia, rectify issues and reenter Ecuador the following day armed with knowledge, smaller denomination currency and a vehicular registration that would satisfy Ecuador.  We'd also have an early start on the day to the coast which was quite a drive.

Arriving at the busy border we parked, walked to the exit office and received our release stamps and then walked across the foot bridge that divided the two nations.  Waited in the line and finally spoke to a Colombian customs agent who informed me there was an new policy requiring a 160,000 peso fee to reenter the Country.  Uh, excuse me?  Another qualifying point.. I had been taking an amino acid called Taurine, it's primary benefit is to calm and relax and frankly it's an amazing product.  My reaction to this form of highway robbery was at first calm and collected, Lulus' response perhaps not quite as much...   Needless to say entry fee paid and once again in Colombia.  I may have mentioned to the Customs agent I'd never again travel to Colombia, perhaps even voiced other unstated policy changes to the Country and might have suggested a change of President was in order but hopefully no one noticed...

We travelled to Pasto, Colombia that evening,  After consultation were advised rectifying the vehicle status need a return to Bogota ( a two day drive) it was decide a holiday in Colombia wasn't such a bad idea.  Found accommodation in a very nice hotel, dined out treating our badly damaged egos to a fine meal with the addition of a few cervesas to sooth the soul.